March is the beginning of spring with longer days which means there’s lots to be getting own with in the garden. However, don’t forget that the weather can also have a more wintry feel with cold winds and low temperatures. Stick to sowing indoors on a bright windowsill or in the greenhouse and don’t be tempted to put tender plants out just yet.

Keep your flower garden sparkling

• Tidy tatty plants: cut back old stems and foliage to just above the ground, taking care not to snip off new growth. 
• Refresh containers:  check over planters, window-boxes and hanging baskets. Pick off dead or damaged leaves and flowers. Scrape away around 2.5 cm of compost from the top and replace with fresh compost. 
• Prune roses: March is your last chance to prune roses, but avoid days when frost is forecasted because the pruned stem may split. Prune to produce an open-centred plant for good air circulation and to encourage new growth.
• Prune fuchsias: cut back to one or two buds on each shoot to encourage a bushy growth.
• Cut back buddleias: cut back last year’s growth to short stubs, just above healthy buds or new shoots, to encourage strong and floriferous regrowth.
• Deadhead daffodils: snip developing seed-heads off so the plant directs its energy and nutrients back into replenishing the bulb. Leave the foliage in place as it will also feed the bulbs.
• Cut back cornus: and other shrubs grown for their colourful winter stems to encourage new stem for next winter. Cut them right back to their base. 
• Cut back hydrangeas: as new shoots are starting to develop, it is time to give hydrangeas a trim to encourage flowering and new growth. Prune off the old flowers to the first healthy pair of buds below. On large and older plants cut out stems down to the base to encourage fresh growth.
• Penstemon: pruning back hard annually is recommended to avoid them becoming woody and leggy. It is best to wait until towards the end of the month or the beginning of April when there is no risk of frost. 

Preparing for colourful and wildlife-friendly plants

Fertilise and mulch your borders: mulch the surface with a 3 to 5 cm  layer of organic matter. It will improve the soil help to suppress weeds and trap moisture in the soil. 

Sow half-hardy annuals: zinnias, cosmos, nicotiana, marigolds, wildflowers….sown indoors in seed trays or plug modules by March or April will start flowering in June. 

• Use peat-free, seeding compost. Fill the seed tray with compost and level the surface by running a piece of wood over it to scrape off the excess. 
• Depending on the size of the seeds, either sprinkle then in a very thin layer or push the seeds one by one. 
• Sieve compost over the seeds and label your trays so you know what is growing.
• Using a watering can with a very thin rose head, gently water the seeds. An alternative, known as bottom watering, is to stand your tray in a shallow tray of water to properly saturate the compost. If using this method, pay close attention to how the tray feels, in terms of weight, once saturated (when the surface of the soil is moist) and use this as a reliable gauge for future watering.
• Cover the tray or plug modules with a clear piece of plastic, to maintain an even temperature and to keep the soil moist. Or use a bespoke propagator that has its own plastic lid. Place in a warm place indoors but not in direct sunlight.
• Remove the plastic cover as soon as the seeds have germinated. The young plants are ready to be “pricked” out when the second pair of leaves emerges. 
• Pricking out seedlings: handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a new tray or small pots with compost and plant seedlings about 5 cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves. 
• Pot individually: after 2 to 3 weeks the young plants will be large enough to be moved individually into pots or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out and if you are planting outside watch out for slugs and snails. 

Divide perennials and ornamental grasses: early spring is the time to refresh herbaceous perennials and to propagate them. Large mature clumps of geraniums, astrantias or hostas can be split now to make more. Some ornamental grasses need division because they die out in the centre. They should be dug up with the outer vigorous sections replanted and the central dead part discarded.  

• Split plants into clumps that are small enough to handle but big enough to make an impact. Discard any old woody centres. 
• Dig up the clump using a spade an ensuring that you get all the roots. 
• Separate the clumps using and old knife, trowel or spade and replant small sections into their new positions immediately. Water them well. 

Transplant foxgloves: Many foxgloves self-seed around the garden and seedlings often appear near the parent plant. These can easily be transplanted to other areas where they have more space to develop. Try to get as big a root ball as possible. Most foxgloves are biennial and you might not get flowers in the same year that you plant the plants. If you want biennial foxgloves to self-seed around the garden and flower reliably every year, you will need to sow or plant them two years in a row. 

Get dahlias under way:  in the greenhouse or in a frost-free growing space, pot up tubers in peat-free multipurpose composts, with the buds facing upwards. Keep moist and place in a bright location until they are ready to plant out at the end of May.

In the vegetable garden

Dig in green manure grown over the winter. Do this while stems are still soft. Chop up leaves and stems with a sharp spade before burying them in the soil.

Weed vegetable seed beds. As the soil starts to warm up and days get longer, weeds will thrive. Keep on top of them before they have a chance to set seeds and spread. 

Dig compost and well rotted manure into your vegetable beds to prepare for the growing season ahead.

First outdoor sowings: cabbages, broccoli, cauliflowers, kale, corn salad, peas, broad beans, parsnip and turnips, beetroots, carrots, Swiss chard can all be sown from mid-March, directly outdoor. 

Sow seeds indoors: using the technique described above for half-hardy annuals, in seed trays or plug modules, sow, sweet peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, aubergines and salads. 

Asparagus: Weed and mulch asparagus beds. Asparagus has shallow roots so weed by hand to prevent damage. March is also the time to plant new crowns. 

Potatoes: are mainly planted in spring, over several weeks, according to the variety. Seed potatoes chitted in February are ready to be planted  from mid-March when the soil temperature has warmed up to 6-10 degrees. Potatoes like rich, fertile soil, so dig in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure.

Rhubarb: mulch with a thick layer of well-rotted manure to keep it healthy and to reduce moisture loss. Take care not to cover the crown.

Raspberry: 

• autumn-fruiting raspberry canes: cut to the ground to stimulate new canes, which will fruit in the autumn.
• Summer-fruiting raspberry: cut the tips of the canes that have grown beyond the top of their supports, cut just above a bud.

Fruit trees: mulch with well-rotted manure or garden compost, taking care not to mound mulch up around the trunk. 

Don’t forget 

Attend to your pathways:  Before herbaceous plants start to tumble onto paths, attend to repairs and scrub hard surfaces as paths can be slippery after winter rain.

Support your early perennials: Now is the best time to put plants supports in place for Delphiniums, lupins and peonies. You can use metal support, or recycled hazel, willow or birch prunings.

Resume mowing: give your lawns its first trim of the year. Do it on a dry day with the mower on its highest setting for a light trim.

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December is the first month of winter with the shortest days and it is often fairly mild. Despite what some think, there are a lot of lovely garden tasks to do this month, so make the most of dry days to do any final tidying. And if the weather turns wintry, retire into the warmth, plan next year’s display and tend to your festive houseplants.

Fruit and vegetables

Manure and mulch:  if you haven’t already, add manure and mulch to protect the bare soil surface from rain and to benefit soil structure. 

Brussels sprouts: harvest as needed starting from the bottom and removing lower leaves. Earth up stems and support with canes if necessary. 

Leeks, parsnips and root vegetables: can be harvested as needed. A good sign that your root vegetables are ready is when their shoulders peep out of the soil. The leaves of parsnips also start to turn brown.

Asparagus: if you haven’t already, cut down dead asparagus foliage, and cover the bed with a thick layer of well rotten manure. 

Fruit trees: December is the perfect time to prune fruit trees to maintain an open, balanced structure and encourage fruit production. The exception is plums, cherries and other stone fruits that should not be pruned until the summer to prevent silver leaf fungus. Use clean, sharp secateurs to avoid damaging your trees

Blackcurrants: winter prune established blackcurrants bushes. They fruit best on strong, young growth, so remove old, thick stems a the base to leave a structured open bush with 6 to 10 upright shoots.

Raspberries: plant raspberry canes while they’re dormant. To prune established raspberries, it is best to wait until the end of the winter. Look out for the February tips for details on how to prune raspberries. 

Rhubarb: divide established clumps of rhubarb, to renew the plant’s vigour. Sections taken from the outside of the plant are better than those from the centre. Plant the new plant section in a well-prepared soil with plenty of organic matter. They are hungry feeder. 

Flowers

Tulips: they will still do well planted this late in the year, provided there is no frost. December is the end of the spring bulbs planting season and there is always a big sell-off with some good bargains. Check out the November tips to find out how to protect your bulbs from squirrels. 

Wisteria: winter—prune your wisteria, cutting back weeping summer side shoots to 2 or 3 buds. 

Climbing roses:  prune now, removing diseased or damaged growth and tying in any new shoots to their support. Prune older flowered side shoots back by two thirds of their length.

Hydrangeas: leave the faded flower heads until spring as they provide frost protection to the swelling buds further down the stems.  

Dahlias: if  you have stored your dahlias tubers (check November tips on how to store dahlias tubers), keep an eye out for rot. 

Cut down and clear away: Cut down perennials that look too untidy. Cut off damaged hellebore leaves. Regularly nip off the spent flowers of cyclamens and winter pansies, to prevent the plants from setting seeds and to extend their bloom. 

Christmas decorations: making your own Christmas decoration from natural materials is a satisfying way to add a festive flair to your home. Even the simplest, barest branch or handful of pinecones can be transformed into impressive decorations. They are many eye catching materials in our gardens and neighbourhood: evergreen foliage, twigs, branches, berries, seed heads.

Don’t forget 

Consider winter protection: it is your last chance to bring into a frost-free location plants that need protection. Potted plants can also be protected by wrapping hessian and/or bubble warp around the outside of their pot to help protect their roots from frost. Cover roots of tender plants with dry thick mulch and wrap sensitive soft growth with biodegradable fleece. 

Greenhouse: tend to plants overwintering in your greenhouse, removing faded leaves and watering them sparingly to keep them just moist. Excess moisture can contribute to disease spread. Ventilate the greenhouse on warmer days to reduce humidity and the risk of disease.

Get ready for spring: clean and organise your pots and seed trays. It will also help reduce the rick of fungal diseases.

Watch out for wildlife: Look out for lichens and leave them in place. They are harmless and colourful composites organisms beneficial to their hosts and especially elegant in the frost.  

Don’t forget to stock up feeders to keep birds fed and to provide water. When refilling feeders, clean them to prevent disease.

Don’t turn over compost heaps and rotting leaves as it may disturb hibernating grass snakes, slowworms, frogs, toads and hedgehogs.

Have a fantastic and festive December

With the clocks gone back at the end of October and temperature forecasted to drop soon, November is the month when it starts to feel like winter is on its way. November can still give us warm days of sunshine and a perfect opportunity to make the most of precious daylight hours to get your garden ready for winter. Continue jobs from October tips, as the weather is still very mild and the wet soil is still good for planting in.

November is also the perfect time to gather ideas and make plans to define how your garden will look next year.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

Broad beans: there is still time to sow broad beans. Sow them directly in the ground in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. “Aquadulce” and “Meteor” are good for overwintering and a spring harvest.

Garlic: garlic needs a cold period to develop into bulbs and produce good crops. It is best planted in free-draining soil. To protect the emerging bulbs from birds, lay netting over new plants.

Root vegetables: a good sign that your root vegetables are ready is when their shoulders peep out of the soil. The leaves of parsnips also start to turn brown. Don’t hesitate to leave them in the ground as frost will contribute to the roots releasing stored starch and converting it into sugar as part of a natural anti-freeze. Frost intensifies the flavour and sweetness of all hardy winter vegetables: cabbage, Brussels sprouts, suede, parsnips. 

Protect bare soil: if you haven’t grown green manure, cover any bare ground with a thick layer of well-rotted homemade compost or manure. This is to prevent damage from winter rains and reduce the germination of weed seeds.

Bare-root fruit trees: November is a great time to plant all kinds of hardy fruit, such as raspberry canes, blueberry, blackberry and current bushes, as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

Stake trees:  newly-planted trees and large shrubs need support to prevent wind rock and root movement. A single stake is suitable for most young trees – it should allow the tree to flex slightly in the wind, which strengthens the trunk. 

Prune apple and pear trees:  once the leaves have fallen start pruning, aiming to maintain an open-centred, goblet-shaped crown. 

FLOWERS

Tulips: November is the ideal time to plant tulips as temperatures are getting cooler. You can still plant tulips as late as December provided there is no frost.  They can be planted in borders and containers. Dig a hole three times the depth of the bulb and add grit to the bottom of the hole. Place the bulb with its pointy end facing upwards.

Squirrels and bulbs: squirrels are notorious for digging up and stealing tulips bulbs. Because these rodents cannot digest cellulose material, they depend on protein-rich plant structure, like those found in nuts and bulbs. There are several things you can do to protect your bulbs: 

• Cover your bulbs: putting chicken wire over the planting area or your pots.
• Avoid smelly fertilisers: Bone meal, fish emulsion, blood meal have a pungent smell that might attract squirrels.
• Plant your bulbs among other plants: when you plant your bulbs among established groundcovers or other perennials, squirrels have a harder time finding the bulbs and digging them up. 
• Add sharp gravel: sharp gravel to the surrounding soil may act as a deterrent, stopping squirrels from digging.
• Clean up your planting areas:  removing any outer papery layers or debris that might have dislodged from the bulbs and that could attract squirrels. 
• Delay planting time:  early autumn is when your bulbs are most at risk when squirrels are desperately foraging to store their winter food supply. Try planting your bulbs later in the season from mid November to late December, when squirrels are no longer desperately foraging.

Penstemons and gauras: these  plants can flower into autumn. Deadhead, but leave stems and leaves in place to help protect the base of the plant from winter weather. Cut back in spring to stop the plants becoming woody. 

Cut down and clear away: Cut down perennials that look too untidy. Pull out and clear away annuals that are no longer flowering.

Dahlias: in mild areas you can leave dahlias in the ground under a thick mulch of compost and chipped bark. If your garden has heavy clay soil or is you are at risk of frequent frost, it is best to lift the tubers and store them. Once dry, pack the tubers in a box or a pot and cover them with dry compost. It is important to ensure the compost is dry, as damp compost could lead to your tubers rotting. You can also store dahlia tubers in vermiculite or warp them in dry newspaper. Place them in a cool dark location for the winter (unheated garages, basements).

Root cuttings: now it is time to increase stock of fleshy roots plants such as phlox, oriental poppies, anemones and verbascums, taking root cuttings 

1. Lift the plant carefully and wash away soil around its roots. 
2. Cut off up to one third of the root section with secateurs, choosing, young, vigorous, pencil-thick roots close to the crown.
3. Replant the parent plant right away. 
4. Prepare the cutting: trimming away the thin roots and divide each cutting into 5-10cm sections. Make a sloping cut at the lower end and a straight horizontal cut at the top of the cutting.
5. Fill pots with compost and insert the cuttings 4cm apart with the horizontal cut  just below the surface of the compost.
6. Cover with a layer of grit, water and place in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. 

Growth will appear in spring when they can be potted into individual pots. 

DON’T FORGET 

• Leaf mould: continue to collect leaves to turn them into “black gold” (more on leaf mould in the October tips of the month)
• Greenhouse, shed and tools clean-up:  tidy up dead plants materials, pots, trays, canes and other gardening kit that could become a breeding ground for diseases. Clean gardens spades, forks and hoe and spray them with WD40 to prevent rust.  
• Consider winter protection: check which of your plants need bringing into a frost-free location or require protection when they are growing outside. Potted plants can be protected by wrapping hessian and/or bubble warp around the outside of their pot to help protect their roots from frost. 
• Before freezing temperatures set in: store away garden equipment and protect outdoor taps and outdoor furniture.
• Raise up pots: as the weather becomes damp and showery, raise potted plants off the ground to prevent them sitting in water. 
• Watch out for wildlife: Resist cutting back vegetation until February/early March as wildlife will benefit from dying seed heads and dead flower stalks etc. Leave mature ivy unpruned to allow flowers and berries to develop. This will provides food for birds and a late source of nectar for pollinators. 

Don’t forget to stock up feeders to keep birds fed and to provide water. When refilling feeders, clean them to prevent disease.