With the clocks gone back at the end of October and a slight chill in the air, it starts to feel like winter is on its way. November can still give us warm days of sunshine and a perfect opportunity to make the most of precious daylight hours to get your garden ready for winter. Continue jobs from October tips, as the weather is still very mild and the wet soil is still good for planting in.

November is also the perfect time to gather ideas and make plans to define how your garden will look next year.

Fruit and vegetables

Broad beans: there is still time to sow broad beans. Sow them directly in the ground in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. “Aquadulce” and “Meteor” are good for overwintering and a spring harvest.

Garlic: garlic needs a cold period to develop into bulbs and produce good crops. It is best planted in free-draining soil. To protect the emerging bulbs from birds, lay netting over new plants.

Root vegetables: a good sign that your root vegetables are ready is when their shoulders peep out of the soil. The leaves of parsnips also start to turn brown. Don’t hesitate to leave them in the ground as frost will contribute to the roots releasing stored starch and converting it into sugar as part of a natural anti-freeze. Frost intensifies the flavour and sweetness of all hardy winter vegetables: cabbage, Brussels sprouts, suede, parsnips. 

Protect bare soil: if you haven’t grown green manure, cover any bare ground with a thick layer of well-rotted homemade compost or manure. This is to prevent damage from winter rains and reduce the germination of weed seeds.

Bare-root fruit trees: November is a great time to plant all kinds of hardy fruit, such as raspberry canes, blueberry, blackberry and current bushes, as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

Stake trees:  newly-planted trees and large shrubs need support to prevent wind rock and root movement. A single stake is suitable for most young trees – it should allow the tree to flex slightly in the wind, which strengthens the trunk. 

Prune apple and pear trees:  once the leaves have fallen start pruning, aiming to maintain an open-centred, goblet-shaped crown. 

Flowers

Tulips: November is the ideal time to plant tulips as temperatures are getting cooler. You can still plant tulips as late as December provided there is no frost.  They can be planted in borders and containers. Dig a hole three times the depth of the bulb and add grit to the bottom of the hole. Place the bulb with its pointy end facing upwards.

Squirrels and bulbs: squirrels are notorious for digging up and stealing tulips bulbs. Because these rodents cannot digest cellulose material, they depend on protein-rich plant structure, like those found in nuts and bulbs. There are several things you can do to protect your bulbs: 

• Cover your bulbs: putting chicken wire over the planting area or your pots.
• Avoid smelly fertilisers: Bone meal, fish emulsion, blood meal have a pungent smell that might attract squirrels.
• Plant your bulbs among other plants: when you plant your bulbs among established groundcovers or other perennials, squirrels have a harder time finding the bulbs and digging them up. 
• Add sharp gravel: sharp gravel to the surrounding soil may act as a deterrent, stopping squirrels from digging.
• Clean up your planting areas:  removing any outer papery layers or debris that might have dislodged from the bulbs and that could attract squirrels. 
• Delay planting time:  early autumn is when your bulbs are most at risk when squirrels are desperately foraging to store their winter food supply. Try planting your bulbs later in the season from mid November to late December, when squirrels are no longer desperately foraging.

Penstemons and gauras: these  plants can flower into autumn. Deadhead, but leave stems and leaves in place to help protect the base of the plant from winter weather. Cut back in spring to stop the plants becoming woody. 

Cut down and clear away: Cut down perennials that look too untidy. Pull out and clear away annuals that are no longer flowering.

Dahlias: in mild areas you can leave dahlias in the ground under a thick mulch of compost and chipped bark. If your garden has heavy clay soil or is you are at risk of frequent frost, it is best to lift the tubers and store them. Once dry, pack the tubers in a box or a pot and cover them with dry compost. It is important to ensure the compost is dry, as damp compost could lead to your tubers rotting. You can also store dahlia tubers in vermiculite or warp them in dry newspaper. Place them in a cool dark location for the winter (unheated garages, basements).

Root cuttings: now it is time to increase stock of fleshy roots plants such as phlox, oriental poppies, anemones and verbascums, taking root cuttings 

1. Lift the plant carefully and wash away soil around its roots. 
2. Cut off up to one third of the root section with secateurs, choosing, young, vigorous, pencil-thick roots close to the crown.
3. Replant the parent plant right away. 
4. Prepare the cutting: trimming away the thin roots and divide each cutting into 5-10cm sections. Make a sloping cut at the lower end and a straight horizontal cut at the top of the cutting.
5. Fill pots with compost and insert the cuttings 4cm apart with the horizontal cut  just below the surface of the compost.
6. Cover with a layer of grit, water and place in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. 

Growth will appear in spring when they can be potted into individual pots. 

Don’t forget 

• Leaf mould: continue to collect leaves to turn them into “black gold” (more on leaf mould in the October tips of the month)

• Greenhouse, shed and tools clean-up:  tidy up dead plants materials, pots, trays, canes and other gardening kit that could become a breeding ground for diseases. Clean gardens spades, forks and hoe and spray them with WD40 to prevent rust.  

• Consider winter protection: check which of your plants need bringing into a frost-free location or require protection when they are growing outside. Potted plants can be protected by wrapping hessian and/or bubble warp around the outside of their pot to help protect their roots from frost. 

• Raise up pots: as the weather becomes damp and showery, raise potted plants off the ground to prevent them sitting in water. 

• Watch out for wildlife: Resist cutting back vegetation until February/early March as wildlife will benefit from dying seed heads and dead flower stalks etc. Leave mature ivy unpruned to allow flowers and berries to develop. This will provides food for birds and a late source of nectar for pollinators. 

Don’t forget to stock up feeders to keep birds fed and to provide water. When refilling feeders, clean them to prevent disease.

According to our October Newsletter, “It is impossible to rain more than it has in September…” so make the most of the weather when it allows us to spend time in our gardens. October is a mixed bag, with some days crisp and sunny, others all wind full of leaves and possibly an Indian summer might bring mild and warmer days.  

Autumn can feel like a bit of a race in the garden. There are so many jobs that can be done, but as the days get shorter and the chill creeps in, the weather will dictate your schedule.

There is still just time to take semi-ripe cuttings of verbena, penstemon, salvia, hebe, choisya …Check out the September tips of the month for details on how to take cutting.

Fruit and vegetables

Pumpkins: support them on bricks or tiles so the sun can ripen them, improving their colour before you carve them on the 31st, or you can store for the winter. They will keep up to 6 months in a cool, dark  place, at a temperature range of 10-16 degC. Store them in a single layer. 

Sow broad beans: “Aquadulce” and “Meteor” are good for overwintering and a spring harvest. Sow them directly in the ground.

Plant autumn onions: choose autumn-planting variety such as “Radar” or “Electric”.  Plant the sets into well-prepared, fertile soil.  Onions need a lot of moisture. You shouldn’t have to water in winter but in spring and summer provide extra moisture if necessary. 

Plant garlic: garlic is best planted in free-draining soil in late autumn or early winter, as the cloves need a period of cold weather to develop into bulbs. To protect the emerging bulbs from birds, lay netting over new plants. 

Rhubarb: new crowns can be planted now and established clumps can be divided. Remember, splitting your rhubarb plants is essential for a lush harvest year after year. 

Bare-root fruit trees: October/November is the ideal time to plant fruit trees. Choosing where to plant your tree and good soil preparation are vital. Choose a site in full sun with enough room for the branches to grow and develop over time.

Improving soil: add mulches, garden compost, spent pot compost and manure to bare soil patches. Soil preparation is vital when growing vegetables. The best time is in autumn for heavy soils and spring for light sandy soils. Digging well-rotted organic matter or manure into clay soil will improve the structure and make it easier to work. 

Green-manure can also be used to cover bare patches between crops. An over-wintering green manure mixture sown in the autumn will help to smoother weeds and prevent soil erosion from winter rain. It will be ready to be dug up in spring releasing nutrients and improving the soil structure. 

Flowers

Dahlias: with little care and attention dahlias will keep flowering for several weeks. Deadheading, keeping plants well staked and clearing up any fallen leaves and debris.

Spring-flowering bulbs: October is the best times to plant daffodil, crocus and iris bulbs, tulips can wait until November. 

Bare-root shrubs, rose and peonies: plant them this month and enjoy their bloom in spring.

Herbaceous perennials: herbaceous perennials can become less productive over time and it’s best to divide the plants every 3 to 5 years. October is a good time to divide and move plants around or to share them with friends.

1. Lift the plant carefully digging around the rootball.
2. Divide the clump using your hands or garden tools to break it apart and to obtain smaller sections with their own root system. 
3. Replant the new sections in holes enriched with well-rotted compost.
4. Backfill, firm and water well

Mulch borders: as perennials die back cover any bare soil with a thick layer of mulch (about 5 cm deep). Leave gaps around woody plants to stop the mulch coming into contact with stems and causing rot. 

Mulching will prevent erosion, protecting the soil from heavy winter rain. It will also help to suppress weeds and as it gradually breaks down, it will feed the soil and improve its structure. 

Mulch could be anything from summer containers spent compost, well-rotted bark, homemade leaf mould or compost. If using spent compost from summer containers, check for vine weevil grubs before spreading on soil. 

Alpines and succulents: alpines and some succulents will cope with winter temperatures, but they will suffer if their roots stay too damp for to long. 

1. Place a cloche over pots or a sheet of glass or perspex over pans, sink or troughs.
2. Remove pot saucers and trays and raise the pot to allow water to drain away freely.
3. In good weather remove the protection to wipe away any build up of condensation.

Make leaf mould. Leaf mould is produced naturally in woods and forests. It differs from conventional composting by the way it is decomposed. Composting uses bacteria to break down leaves while leaf mould uses fungi. It is also a very slow process that will take a minimum of 1 year to 2 or even 3 years depending on the type of leaves. It is an invaluable soil conditionner. Well-rotted (over 2 years old) it can be used as seed-sowing compost. Leaf mould that is less than 2 years old can be used as mulch and soil improver. 

So start now and welcome autumn leaves as a gift to your garden, turning them into “black gold”. 

1. Collect leaves.
2. Place the leaves into a bin liner (preferably black), moisten them if they are dry.
3. Pierce holes in the bag.
4. Tie the top loosely and stack the bags out of sight for up to 2 years. 

You can also build a storage pen from chicken wire supported at the corner with stakes. Make you leaf heap as large as possible to hasten decay and sprinkle with water in dry spells.

Don’t forget 

• Tidy your pond: Autumn is a good time to get your pond in order and improve oxygen levels to help plants and wildlife. Tidy plants, thin out growth and put netting over the surface to prevent leaves from falling into the water. 

• Return houseplants inside preparing them for winter: tidy them up removing yellowing foliage, check for pests and ease back on watering and stop feeding.

• Raise up pots: as the weather becomes damp and showery, raise potted plants off the ground to prevent them sitting in water. 

• Move pelargoniums and geraniums: place them in a sheltered spot.

• Check tree stakes and ties: to help trees stand up to winter storms. Make sure that stakes and ties are secure and that the ties have not become too tight over the years. 

• Organise your equipment: roll ups, drain, clean and store hoses and other equipment over winter to prolong their life. 

• Watch out for wildlife: leave windfall fruits for birds and other wildlife. Leave ivy as a useful late source of nectar for pollinators. 

• Halloween on Thursday 31st October: don’t forget to carve your pumpkin, gather friends and share your garden successes around a glass of spiced cider or mulled wine. Enjoy squash soup and pumpkin pies. 

The weather in September can vary from very warm sunshine to chilly wet days reminding us that autumn is just around the corner. Make the most of the the dry and sunny days as there is plenty to do in September to prepare for next year.  It is also harvesting time for many fruits and vegetables.

Flowers 

Dahlias are at their peak in September and if the weather is mild they’ll carry on blooming for several more weeks. Likewise cosmos, zinnias and Japanese anemones.

However, by late summer many gardens plants are starting to run out of steam. There is still plenty life left in them if you carry out few simple tasks:

• Feed and water plants during sunny spells
• Nip off spent flowers to keep the bloom coming
• Remove brown and ragged leaves
• Address powdery mildew  – a fungal disease  – keep watering and remove debris and overhanging growth to improve air circulation. 
• Stake top heavy dahlias and sunflowers especially when high wind is forecast.

Plant spring-flowering bulbs: September and October are the best times to plant daffodil, crocus and iris bulbs, tulips can wait until November. 

Saw hardy annual: Nigella, Honesty, Flax, Cornflowers, Poppies, Larkspur … Growing hardy annual flowers from seeds is quick and easy. They are able to survive frost, so can be sown outdoors in autumn. They will survive the winter to bring summer colour to your garden or even your plot. Many will attract pollinators.

• Make sure the area to be sown is weed-free.
• Dig over the soil to a spade’s depth, rake it over and firm.
• Plan the area to be sown by sprinkling grit or sand on the soil or score the ground with a cane to mark out sowing areas. Decide what should go where according to height, habit and colour.
• It is important not to sow into a soil that is too rich, since this may encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so avoid using fertiliser.
• Scatter seeds thinly (or sow into drills) and cover lightly with soil or compost.
• Water well with a watering can fitted with a fine rose.

Plant out biennial: foxgloves, hollyhocks, sweet williams, wallflowers, forget-me not … If you have sown some back in midsummer, or you have young plants from self-seeding,  now is the time to plant them into their final positions.

Leave perennials for wildlife:  when tidying up your borders, resist the urge to cut back dying perennials. Many have seedbeds (sedum and thistles) for birds  and they can provide shelter for insect as well as protecting the soil from winter weather. 

Take cuttings:  It is your last chance to take semi-ripe cuttings of verbena, penstemon, salvia, lavender to increase stocks and beat winter losses.

1. Select shoots and trim to around 5 cm just below a leaf joint.
2. Remove the lower foliage.
3. Insert around the edge of a pot of compost.
4. Keep moist and out of direct sunlight to root.

Fruit and vegetables

Harvest apples: and lay them carefully to avoid bruising into an open shallow trays. Keep them in a cool frost-free and airy environment.

Harvest and store potatoes: dig them up now and keep them for your home-grown roast potatoes on Christmas Day. 

1. Once the stems have withered, lift potatoes carefully with a fork on a dry sunny day.
2. Leave then on the soil surface to dry their skins for few hours.
3. Brush any excess earth (don’t wash them) and pack into paper or hessian bags.
4. Keep your bags in a cool frost-free, dark, dry place. 

Courgettes and aubergines: pick them regularly to encourage the remaining fruits to develops.

Pumpkins: raise them onto a piece of slate or wood to prevent them from rotting.

Winter salads: Sow lam’s lettuce, mizuna, rockets, mustard leaves.

Plant a strawberry bed: September is the perfect time to create a new patch. 

Don’t forget 

• Tidy your pond: not to allow plant debris to build up. Tidy plants, thin out growth and put netting over the surface to prevent leaves from falling in to the water.

• Return houseplants inside preparing them for winter: tidy them up removing yellowing foliage, check for pests and ease back on watering and stop feeding.

• Neaten up borders:  trim back stems that have flowered in early summer. Cut back dead or flopping stems. 

• Protect soils: spread a thick layer of mulch over bare soil to reduce weathering from winter rains.

• Prepare for leaf fall: making a leaf enclosure to create dark, crumbly leaf mould also known as “black gold”.  More on how to make leaf mould and its benefits in the October Tips of the month.